Saturday, January 22, 2011

TANAKA NAO DYE COLOR CHARTS

                                    
 Sirius dye fabric sample card.
This is a dye originally made by Bayer 
and now distributed by Dystar.  
Syrius is a Direct dye for cellulose fibers.


Sirius color chart using both .5% and 3.0% dye strength
click to enlarge color chart. 


Procion M dyestuff fabric sample card.
Procion M are cold water reactive dyes. They are commonly used in tie dye and other textile crafts. They are were originally made by ICI Organics. The brand name is now owned by Dystar,  the patent on the dyes has expired, many manufacturers around the world now make them.

         
  Procion M color chart using both .5% and 3.0% dye strength
click to enlarge color chart. 

 

Natural dye color chart.  


In these color samples on chirimen silk the following mordants were used from left to right, click to enlarge color chart. 

Tin (suzu), ammonium acetate (arumi), sakusan do (acetic acid), chromium acetate,
potassium bichromate (juchrome), iron (tetsu).
The dyes used from top left to the bottom left are: shibuki (wild peach bark), enju (Japanese pagoda tree), Suo (sappanwood, Brazil wood), lac, fustic (Chlorophora tinctoria), quebracho tree (quebrachia), myroballun (ground nuts of the Terminalia chebula tree),  rhamnus Japonicus (Japanese buckthorn), Logwood, catechu.


                                                    NATURAL DYES ON WOOL YARN

Left hand page, click to enlarge color chart. 


 Tin mordant: First row, left to right, top to bottom, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), lac, Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Japanese buckthorn rhamnus Japonicus, shibuki (wild peach bark), Paeonia (Kogane-zome), Unknown,  damar (damarinto), gambir or katechu (katekyu), quebracho,

Aluminum acetate: Second row, top to bottom, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), lac, Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Japanese buckthorn rhamnus Japonicus, shibuki (wild peach bark), Paeonia (Kogane-zome), Unknown,  damar (damarinto), gambir or katechu (katekyu), quebracho.

Chrome:Third row, top to bottom, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), lac, Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Japanese buckthorn rhamnus Japonicus, shibuki (wild peach bark), Paeonia (Kogane-zome), Myrobalan,  damar (damarinto), gambir or katechu (katekyu), quebracho.

Iron: Fourth row, top to bottom, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), lac, Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Japanese buckthorn rhamnus Japonicus, shibuki (wild peach bark), Paeonia (Kogane-zome), Myrobalan,  damar (damarinto), gambir or katechu (katekyu), quebracho. 

                    

                                                                 


NATURAL DYES ON COTTON


The chart shows light, medium and heavy concentrations of dye.

Read the charts left to right and top to bottom, click to enlarge color chart.


Tin mordant: First row, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Fustic (gereppu), shibuki (wild peach bark), Golden dye (Paeonia 'Kogane-zome), Myrobalan, Baikal Skullcap, tamarind, katechu, quebracho tree (quebrachia)


Aluminum acetate: Second row, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), lac (rakkudai), Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Buckthorn (kuroumemodoki), Fustic (gereppu), shibuki (wild peach bark), Golden dye (Paeonia 'Kogane-zome), Myrobalan, Baikal Skullcap, tamarind, katechu, quebracho tree (quebrachia).


Chrome: Third row, Logwood, sappan wood (suo), lac (rakkudai), Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Buckthorn (kuroumemodoki) , Fustic (gereppu), shibuki (wild peach bark), Golden dye (Paeonia 'Kogane-zome), Myrobalan, Baikal Skullcap, tamarind, katechu, quebracho tre.


Copper: Fourth row: Logwood, sappan wood (suo), Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Fustic (gereppu), shibuki (wild peach bark), Golden dye (Paeonia'Kogane-zome), Baikal Skullcap, tamarind, katechu, quebracho tree.


Iron: Fifth row: Logwood, sappan wood (suo), Japanese pagoda tree (enju), Fustic (gereppu), shibuki (wild peach bark), Golden dye (Paeonia 'Kogane-zome), Myrobalan, Gall nut (kibush), Baikal Skullcap, katechu (asenyaku), quebracho tree.

  For information on how to extract natural dyes and the use of the different mordants used by Japanese dyers, please refer to my post on November 3, 2009.  These charts were made by Tanaka Nao and are no longer available.  I purchased these charts in 1985 when I was on a Fulbright research grant to study Kusaki-zome (Japanese grass and tree dyes).  I post them here for all who are interested.
Tanaka Nao website a wonderful source for dyeing supplies, fabric, stencils, brushes, etc.  Go visit when in Tokyo or Kyoto, Japan.
http://www.tanaka-nao.co.jp/, Tokyo and Kyoto, Japan, order by fax only
Tokyo Tel. 03 3400 4844, Fax 03 3400 4969

Thursday, November 18, 2010

MAKING BLOCKS FOR FABRIC PRINTING IN INDIA

      A BLOCK CARVING STUDIO IN RAJASTHAN, INDIA.

                SAMPLE BOOK OF WOOD BLOCK DESIGNS.

               SHOWING A CUSTOMER THE DESIGNS.

            

  
  THE BLOCK IS LEVELED THEN A MIXTURE OF CHALK AND WATER IS SMEARED 
ON THE SURFACE.  THE BLOCKS ARE MADE OF SHEESHAM WOOD (INDIAN ROSEWOOD)

      THEN THE DESIGN IS TRANSFERRED ONTO THE BLOCK BY PIERCING THE DESIGN 
                           ON THE PAPER PATTERN INTO THE WOOD.





  





                                MARKS ON THE BLOCK OUTLINING THE PATTERN.


                             DRILLING HOLES IN THE BLOCK BEFORE CARVING.





 USING COTTON WADDING IN THE BLOCK TO HOLD THE DYE.

Saturday, October 09, 2010

PART 2 OF NIPPON HANDWEAVES IN KUSAKIZOME DYES BY AKIRA YAMAZAKI

Add caption
Gromwell, lithospermum erythrorhizon (murasaki)
Red from Saffron (benibana); yellow, gardenia
black of indigo, nut of the betel palm tree (binro)





















Yellow is miscanthus tinctorus (kariyasu) and tumeric (ukon
Red from sappan wood (suoh) treated with ash.
and brown (tamakusu)
Red is sappan wood (suoh); yellow, tumeric
(ukon), blue and black are indigo (aizome)

Red is sappan wood (suoh); brown (tamakusu)


Indigo (ai)
Mountain peach bark (shibuki or yamamomo)
Natural brown cotton or tea colored cotton (chawata)

This loom was known as the cripple loom because when seated at the loom the weaver's feet were tied to the shafts.

Friday, September 24, 2010

NIPPON HANDWEAVES IN KUSAKIZOME DYES by Akira Yamazaki

I received this book as a gift in 1974. It is my treasured possession. Only 200 copies were printed in 1959, mine is No.194.




Asiatic dayflower (tsuukusa)


Saffron (benibana); madder (akane); gardenia (kuchinashi)



Fermented indigo (ai) balls
Sawtooth oak (kunugi)

Red (sappan wood); olive, mountain peach (shibuki); 
black is betel nut palm (binro) and indigo (ai)



Brown dye is gardenia (kuchinashi); 
red is sappan wood (suoh)

Gray is cranes bill geranium (gennoshoko); 
red is sappan wood (suoh)

Maroon is sappan wood (suoh); 
black dyed with indigo (ai) and 
wild sumac (yama-urushi)

Ramie dyed with indigo (ai); tumeric (ukon), 
eulalia grass miscanthus tinctorus (kariyasu) for yellow; 
alder, mountain peach bark and plum 
(han, shibuki and ume) for brown




Plum (ume)

Auburn color, Rosa rugosa (hamanashi); 
black is alder (han) with mountain peach (yamamono)




Gall (fushi or gobaishi); yellow (kuchinashi); 
light purple machilus thunbergi (tamakusu)

Blue (ai); green (ai) and yellow,  
eulalia grass miscanthus tinctorus (kariyasu)

Fermented indigo balls (aidama)




Yellow, gardenia (kuchinashi); red, sappan wood (suoh); 
black, (shibuki, myrica rubia. mountain peach and 
yamamomo, shibuki)




Pomegranate
To be continued....